22 February 2009

Cheese

My driver Leo has very broad taste in music. He particularly seems to like Oz rock and drum + bass. So it was a surprise today when I asked him what his all time favourite song was - and he said Glen Medeiros - Nothing's Going to Change My Love for You. I've downloaded it for his benefit - my itunes cred is forever in tatters.

If you should so wish to revisit the work of Seniore Medeiros, please click here

Random Sunday morning Delhi

The Sunday stupour in my street was shattered by this - ghetto blaster meets ancient hindi scripture (I'm guessing).

I live in a quiet street - the type of street Mr Whippy vans might visit on hot Sunday afternoons to taunt the neighbourhood children. Today, as I digested the sunday morning papers, a full brass band strolled past my house accompanied by women dancing and a man dressed as a hindu god riding atop a truck. They stopped across the road from my house and blasted my neighbour with hindi songs for 10 minutes. The man dressed as a god made a speech and then they all turned around and walked back down the street. So random!!!!! Anyone with tips on what it all means, please let me know.

21 February 2009

On the N5


We were driving down the main highway through Orissa (which connects to Kolkata in the north and Chennai in the South) late one evening recently. Rounding a corner we came across the mother of all jams. More than two thousand trucks (and I'm not exaggerating) were lined up on the road - and judging by the card games underway between drivers they'd been there a while! We cheekily drove on the wrong side of the road for about 2km passing truck after truck - nothing coming the other way. In a small village we asked why the trucks were all stopped. A policeman told us a child had been hit by a truck that afternoon while walking home from school. The villagers, enraged, had blocked all traffic on the highway. They were unwilling to move until the District Collector (sort of a chief town bureaucrat) came down to negotiate compensation. It seemed the going price for a child's road death was Rs20,000. But the Collector was busy, and no subordinates were authorised to approve such an expenditure (about AUD600) so the trucks stood still, their loads sweltering in the heat. Eventually when the Collector rocked up, a compromise was agreed - Rs10,000 and a promise that the Government would erect speedhumps on the highway through the village. Leaving we passed another thousand trucks backed up in the other direction. All sat there patiently, filling the 5 hours of boredom with comradery and endless stares down the line of trucks.

Dalit village holy man - Orissa


Hard work in pink

Not to suggest this has national applicability, but in villages I visited recently it was hard to miss the amount of hard menial work being done by the women of the village. Here a woman is sorting the rice husks from the chaff. In the fields women were bending over to prepare the ground for the growing season ahead - waiting for the rains. Nearby other women were washing, caring for infants and cooking. All the while wearing spectacular hot pink saris. I suspect the men were mostly undertaking work further afield, but those present were doing quite a bit of 'important man' business.

Home beautiful


A number of the villages I visited recently had chalk markings such as this outside the front door - each house a slightly different design. My driver tells me they're done each morning and evening to "show off" (by which I assume he means "to make the house pretty"). Imagine if the taggers of the world could contribute their random little acts of beauty in chalk, ready to be washed away in the summer rain.

Marriage: toilet - important


I'm told this sign in an Orissan village reads...."you cannot marry my daughter unless you have a toilet." Fair enough criteria I reckon - and good use of leverage to reinforce a public health message.

Flamingos



Lake Chilika


Recently I took a dawn boat ride on Lake Chilika, an important migratory bird sanctuary in Orissa. The morning was still, warm and beautiful as the fishermen plied the brakish water, seeing where the fish might be running, casting their nets in hope. In the middle of the lake, whole flocks of siberian ducks and flamingos were restocking their bellies for the homeward journey. I've never been a bird man, but as a non-believer, this was pure magic.

A flash of indian truck

India's trucks are a astonishing feast of colour and they light up the highways by day and night. I love a country where truckers aren't afraid to bling up their rigs with tinsel, streamers, and flower pictures. I saw one last week which had a bunch of peacock feathers attached to the grill.

15 February 2009

Futile act: Man washes sign in dusty Delhi construction zone


Man sands with his hands - next door



The lane behind my house


It had to happen eventually



Last week my theory that 'Delhi traffic may be mad but it works' hit a snag, or a Maruti Suzuki to be more precise. I guess it's implicit that where margins of error are small, errors occur. So it was that as one arterial road merged into Delhi's major ring road, a Maruti Suzuki cheekily pushed in front of my friend's car at a strange angle and was duly clipped. An almightly debate ensued, first in the middle of the intersection to the chagrin of the horn-honkers, then later on the roadside. Little Maruti man lept about in histrionics, pointing at a pre-existing scrape and gesturing for payment. Then a sour looking patriarch emerged from the Maruti to gaphump around, pass judgement and gesticulate unhelpfully. My friends fought the good fight on the side of calm discussion, but failed.... the goons were called - big burley lads in red. But the day was saved when a passer-by-of-note intervened (hard to define how this helped, but it did). Pulling out the camera probably helped too - it turned out the Maruti was an illegal taxi! I'm amazed this kind of thing doesn't happen more often.

Dawn at Chandigarh station



14 February 2009

Tradition vs climate change

How's this for an environmental quandry. I've just been to Punjab where they are worrying about the carbon change consequences of traditional cremation. Apparently authorities have built electric crematoriums but nobody wants to use them. Fair enough I guess - I'd prefer a fragrant sandalwood cremation any day. But authorities are also worries about the denuding of the landscape and increasingly have to import wood from neighbouring states to meet demand.

For the record , Chandigarh has solar powered traffic lights and collects rainwater from large office buildings. The future is here.