13 September 2009

Old Delhi naan shop



I wonder if I would be as friendly as the shopkeepers of old Delhi were camera-wielding farangis to poke their heads through my door for a quick geezer. This naan shop, like so many in old Delhi, opened entirely onto the street, an extension of it. In the post-dusk light it shone like a beacon as we weaved through the tight lanes.

Mother and child in a crowd

Sexology's star couple



For a country quite adept at breeding, India is very shy about the concept of S**. It's the invisible and unspoken element. Most advertising that references s** uses western models - as though western women have s** but Indian women are born as doting mothers. But for all the silence, there are a lot of self-appointed 's**ologists' who ply their trade in the markets and main streets. I wonder whether the couple pictured here volunteered to be the manifestation of successful s**ology, or whether their image was just nicked from the web. Either way, the Tom-Cruise-and-Katy-Holmes of Sexology say to me: "after three consultations, you, Mister, are guaranteed bad hair and male lipstick."

Ways to beat the rain and look vaguely spiritual...

The Jama Masjid playground

Waiting for the sun to set and the eating to begin - Jama Masjid

The balloon man of Shahjahanabad




Not a big demand for balloons last night. We saw him again a few hours later and his glumness - unsuited to his profession - had not lifted.

10 September 2009

Dear leader

A senior politician from Andhra Pradesh died tragically in a helicopter crash last week. In the feverish aftermath media reported (insert bucket of salt) that more than fifty people had been so grief sticken that they committed suicide. More still reportedly died of grief related heart-attacks. The politician in question was - by most accounts - a good fella, but this demonstrates the seriousness with which some people take politics here. Eish.

The roads in Delhi....



.... are made by hand. The use of mechanical road making devices is banned to protect jobs. But they're not bad roads. And if you look closely you can see fingerprints of human toil all over them.

Glorious puddles outside my house when it rains....

This man has balls

If game theory were a mandatory part of driver training

Driving home tonight, the traffic ground to a halt (again) near the ringroad intersection where all the muth*$&$^&*# drivers try to push in front of eachother - another traffic mess of rubics-cube-esque complexity. The lights were out because it had been raining all day, and the cops were off taking care of more lucrative problems, and so we all just sat there and waited for the mess to sort itself out for an hour. Imagine a hundred children in a playground being given a single knotted piece of string and being told that the one to undo the knot got a lifetime of lollies. Well such was the approach to undoing the traffic knot - a car melee.

I wonder sometimes if the mandatory teaching of game theory in Indian driving schools might help. Everyone would identify this as a collective action problem. All drivers are seeking the payoff of a quick ride home. But they also know that if they can successfully circumvent the traffic order, their payoff will be bigger - they'll get home even earlier. The bit they miss is that if everybody tries to circumvent, everybody loses! No payoff! We all get home later than if everyone patiently let things flow. So, a collective action problem solvable only by the creation of a higher order authority (the absent traffic cop) and enforcable penalties for circumventers (a whack with the long stick some cops carry around).

But I digress. For the time being, the ringroad disaster is my chance to ringfriends.